One&Only Portonovi: Discovering a New Adriatic Riviera amid Montenegro’s history and Pristine Landscapes

(Courtesy of One&Only)

Visiting Montenegro had never figured in our travel plans. For many years it remained out of the spotlight as a luxury destination, and its name never carried a grand acclaim. But this very isolation must have helped preserve the natural enchantment of Montenegro’s coastline, the ancient atmosphere of its villages, all crystallized in a proud national spirit.

Here the One&Only Brand has recently revived an old naval base. A change of the guard between the past and the new aspirations of the nation. And it led to a new fervour of growth and renewal.

Airlines have not yet reshaped their flight routes, and those plane tickets — which in fact brought us to the most convenient arrival point, Dubrovnik Airport, just across the border in Croatia — turned out to lead to an unforgettable experience, one seen through the lens of One&Only Portonovi, one of the country’s most beautiful resorts.

I.

The Renaissance of Kumbor Bay

One hour’s drive south of Dubrovnik, the road is the passage between the mountains and the shoreline of Montenegro, lined with cypresses and small local communities perched on the mountain slopes. The bay of Kumbor, and the resort of Herceg Novi, are located just across the national border.

A quick stop at customs is needed, during which it is impossible not to think of the stratified decades of history, keeping in mind that the renaissance can’t be separated from the past. But we see in the gulf the slow movements of cruise ships that, as our driver proudly affirms, intensify with the restoration of the adjacent coast. It seems that a new Riviera has come to life.

The bays of Kumbor, the so-called fjords, were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to the natural beauty of the secluded white shores and calm emerald waters, carved into the dark green mountains. Here the days slowly pass by on boats and exploring the still pristine coasts. Immersed in clouds and in the golden reflections of the ripples of the sea of Kumbor Bay, the iconic entrance square of One&Only Portonovi appears. The great colonnades and the grandeur of its heights are now devoted to hospitality.

II.

Between Heritage and Nature

I took some time, seated on a extra-large leather sofa in front of a grand fireplace, to sense the extraordinary, refined hall. It was indeed a courageous undertaking, turning the military magnificence to the warm hospitality of a grand residence. The building’s rigorous lines, in austere grey marble, are balanced by the woven textures of the draperies. From the solemn soaring ceiling of the old military building a large chandelier — a shining cascade of faceted painted-glass pearls — descends, somehow recalling the mimosa, Montenegro’s national flower. These high walls still emanate a quiet reverence, but this new shining overlay tells a fresh story of hopes and optimism.

Temperatures in May invite us to walk in the garden, on the velvety green lawn, between the white colonnades that evoke a palace courtyard — but symmetry is dissolved thanks to the interplay of flowers and Mediterranean shrubs, and by an ironic almost life-sized chessboard on the lawn, suggests that strategy itself has been reduced to a mere game. During the walk we counted at least five pools — the main one is framed by elegant gazebos, amid palm and dwarf lavenders —glimmering among the coastal gardens in different shape and size.

All around the garden the terracotta roofs and colonnaded terraces of pavilions recall the mythological soul of the Balkan peninsula and the Venetian Republic inspiration. Our room was set within these buildings: the refined luxury and the overall care reveals the philosophy of the resort, turning the room into a microcosm of subtle details to be discovered — from a complete drinks sets to magnificent bed drapes to the scented bath salts, to be used in the bathtub overlooking the bay through a window. Nestled on the terrace overlooking the bay there was little reason to leave the room, and we had our private aperitif of Japanese dishes and crisp white wine, with the placid boats drifting in the bay.

(Courtesy of One&Only)

III.

The perfect landscape

Between sea and mountains, the resort finds its essence in the contemplation of landscapes that seems like fresh watercolors vistas. The garden stretches toward a private crescent-shaped beach of pale pink sand. Here some umbrellas and loungebeds stand scattered as on a remote island beach and a leisure rhythm unfolds with ease, with nothing but the verdant mountain on the horizon and an exceptional bar service crafting fresh, beachside cocktails.

We were captivated by the mountains: they are still largely untouched and a dense, unbroken forest covers them, with the secluded beaches lie hidden at their feet. As during the day the elegant wooden boats sail from the resort’s port and scurry fast in the bay, we couldn’t resist the opportunity to set sail in this immersive natural theater, thanks to the resort bespoke tour.

And once we got back we didn’t miss the chance to carve out some time to explore the resort from within. An oversized mosaic surprised us inside the heated pool - like a sun rising from the water, reflecting all the colors of dawn and dusk. A luxurious hall, followed by a spacious gym overlooking the gardens, and finally a petite, jewel-like spa — intimate and perfectly designed.

(Courtesy of One&Only)

III.

Sunset and Nightlife at the Marina

There is a hidden gem in the resort. The bar Caminetti is hidden behind a heavy colonnade. Several fireplaces under the porch overlook both indoor and outdoor, heating both the air and the atmosphere, and cream-colored sofas compose a stylish open-air living room. Between the sea breeze, a crafted beer and a gourmet cheeseburger, our chess match lasted until the sun set behind the mountains and illuminates the portico in red. Then, under the colonnades, a professional telescope stands for the luckiest to watch the first stars appear in the sky after sunset.

To round off the day we wandered just outside the resort, through a brand new neighborhood, lined with delightful residences and lively little shops, which perfectly matches the resort aesthetic, like a natural, elegant extension. In the evening the marina starts to come alive in an easygoing lifestyle, made up of trendy and modern restaurants just in front of the pier. Our last toast here takes a romantic turn with the lights of the moored boats creating a little constellation.

(Courtesy of One&Only)