Choosing the best perspective — On the rooftop of the Ritz-Carlton Bangkok

The first encounter with Bangkok always has a lot to say. Matching the buzz of a chaotic and noisy crowd just outside the arrival gate at the Suvarnabhumi airport is no easy feat. Especially after the quiet of a long-haul flight. But while the taxi sped along highways it passed over entire neighborhoods of modest houses stacked together, and shrinking near the towering skyscrapers, you get used to the magnitude of the city.

We were headed to Lumphini Park, a placid historic oasis within a fast-paced city, whose wild treetops suddenly break through the metal skyline. I needed the right vantage point to observe such a complex panorama, one that could offer a broad perspective without being overwhelmed by the city’s relentless rhythm. The newly opened Ritz-Carlton appeared to be the perfect place to begin.

Lumphini Park (iStock)

I.

One Bangkok

The old boundary walls of Lumphini Park shield it from surrounding traffic — and from the expanding modern city. It’s a popular spot for outdoor pursuits, where locals and travelers alike jog on its tree-lined avenues, around bodies of water, creating a counterpoint to the polished geometry of the skyscrapers that surround it. The skyline has been changed by a new district of nine skyscrapers, named One Bangkok. The futuristic hub blurs the boundaries between nature and the city, as green paths weave through its skyscrapers.

Within them is housed a permanent exhibition by internationally renowned artists (Tony Cragg, Anish Kapoor, Elmgreen & Dragset). An artistic itinerary that unfolds through the gardens below the soaring towers, revealing that the ambitious city spares no means to reinvent its own future - blending art, nature and technology into a living, evolving vision.

But that place still leaves room for memory — just think that the land where One Bangkok rises was once on the city’s edge, surrounded by rice fields, and home to the Saladaeng Station, the first radiotelegraph station in the city. Here history has not been erased, and among the towering skyscrapers there is still a museum dedicated to the pioneering days of communication technology. Crossing the road that passes between Lumphini Park and One Bangkok placed me exactly between the city’s past and fast-moving future — and being in the middle of it all is unexpectedly moving.

Rizt-Carlton Hall and Re/Leaf fountain (Courtesy of Ritz-Carlton)

II.

The Ritz-Carlton Bangkok

One Bangkok is also home to the first Ritz-Carlton Hotel in the city. Its inauguration in December 2024 drew wide media attention, showing the ambition of a luxury location designed to host prestigious events and welcome an international audience. It spans on 25 floors of a 216-meter skyscraper ( three sleek quiet elevators run effortlessly between floors; the movement through the tower never feels busy) and features at the 23rd floor an exclusive Club Lounge with a personalized, bespoke service — a dedicated check-in, private concierge and five culinary presentations throughout the day. Open to all guests, it features  two restaurants and a lounge bar — Duet, Lily’s and Caleo, which offer experiences from haute cuisine to conviviality — a spa and a fitness center.

Nature takes center stage with the black marble fountain lies in the center of the lobby. The blown glass sculptures, representing the flowering phases of the water lily, stand on the veil of water and create a dynamic scene with the backdrop of the city’s skyline. It’s a masterpiece by the Thai artist Nathakorn Kanitvaranum, named Re/Leaf 2024.

Interior are a true work of art in elegance that goes beyond the Ritz-Carlton’s famous standards. The alternation of black and white polished marbles are a scenic bright background for the colorful, oversized fresh floral arrangements. Developed by the architects SOM of Chicago and the Thai studio A49 and the Thai interior design studio PIA, it recalls an atmosphere of modern polished luxury, where elements of Thai style are subtle but unmistakably vibrant. 

The 260 glorious suites are enhanced by a warm and intimate wood and fabric panelling, where we were pleased by the generous softness of the oversized bed. We came back to ourselves in the magnificent, bright marble bathroom, between the soaking tub and the seated rain shower, all stocked with Diptyque amenities. A traditional lacquered bar cabinet and an elegant chaise lounge create a living atmosphere where we indulged in the sweet treats left for us in celebration of Valentine’s Day, a small spontaneous connection to the culture’s gentle rhythm. (Thank you, Roxanne!)

The lobby entrance of Ritz-Carlton Bangkok (Courtesy of Ritz-Carlton)

III.

An Oasis on the Rooftop

Whether in the dry season or rainy season, Bangkok features a year-round tropical climate. With a high humidity level and warm temperatures, the vegetation thrives, turning the urban landscape into an intriguingly exotic hybrid. The seventh floor of the Ritz-Carlton Bangkok opens up to a true hanging garden, with a monumental swimming pool, framed by trees and bushes, and private lounge beds nestled in their shade. The towering skyline rises over the tree canopy of Lumphini Park, a suggestive view of layered planes.

After hours immersed in the dense urban fervor, in the buzz of the ubiquitous tuk-tuks, in a crowded sanctuary, or in the vibrant market street, the silence of this breathtaking oasis gives space to reflect and unwind, whether immersed in the swimming pool or enjoying a drink at the pool bar. Inspiration for passionate travelers comes easily, having the city in sight, revealing all the contrasts at once.

Hidden among the foliage, the terrace hosts the restaurant Duet, led by the Michelin-starred chef David Toutain and Valentin Fouache. It serves a French-inspired menu, in an intimate greenhouse surrounded by an elegant jungle-style botanical setting. With just few tables, a soft golden glow, a sense of awe reach you during your intimate dinner there. Just beyond the foliage — and over a glass of fresh white wine — the city glimmers in the distance.

The rooftop infinity pool and stunning views over the city skyline. (Courtesy of Ritz-Carlton)

IV.

An Event on High

Before the sunset, the glow of the candles began to pervade the terrace. White flower arrangements filled the corners, softening the atmosphere with their scent and their vibrant colors. Light music filled the terrace and the evening air began to cool off after another hot day. When the newlyweds arrived, the atmosphere was filled with smiles, hugs, and even tears of emotion. Colorful and elegant dresses made guests and newlyweds even more radiant as they danced among the candles and flowers, moments immediately captured by photographers.

On the final evening of our stay, we raised our last glass in a toast to a city that had reshaped our perspective, and amid its creative energy we gave way to this joyful celebration. As the sun set behind the skyline, little by little the lights throughout the city came on, like a mosaic, revealing the presence infinite lives inside the skyscrapers.

Illuminated Ritz-Carlton Bangkok and Lumphini Park at night (Courtesy of Ritz-Carlton)