La Maddalena: a Travel Experience in the unspoiled Sardinia’s Archipelago

Still, there exist places where human presence shows how little it really matters. Here, the wind and the sea currents still hold dominance in shaping the landscape and the rhythm of the days. But don’t think of an atoll in the middle of the ocean. It’s in the Mediterranean, just a fifteen-minute windy ferry ride from the Sardinian mainland. That patch of sea hosts a mosaic of islands of untamed nature — a true luxury travel destination. The main island, La Maddalena, gives its name to the all archipelago.

Only a handful of residents live today on these islands, in a quaint, picturesque namesake town, lined with refined marinas and elegant historic buildings. Emerald waters and movie-set beaches attract a lively influx of visitors during high season, drawn by boat tours among the islands, cycling routes through unspoiled nature and fiery breathtaking sunsets. But for a taste of the raw and intense beauty, mid-season should be considered - when sea temperatures will still allow diving, and the modest presence of humans will reveal a landscape in its authentic nature.

The genuinely rugged land of Sardinia unfolds roads that softly cross its coastal plains, discretely passing by the foothills of the inland mountainous ranges. While driving north from Olbia Airport in October, we stopped our car among low bushes of Mediterranean vegetation and in the scent coming at every breath of wind, helped a huge tortoise safely cross the roads, before reaching the Palau harbor.

Panoramic aerial vista of La Maddalena Archipelago

I.

Life in Town

The population of La Maddalena relies solely on those big rusty ferry boats to reach the Sardinian mainland. And although it only takes the time for a breakfast on board, the islands still live a separate history. Arrival at the town’s small harbor reveals the sun-washed red palette - from the elegant early 20th - century buildings nested on the slope to the rocks themselves that forms the archipelago. As we enter the harbor, a couple of proud sailboats quietly leave it, ready to venture among the islets.

Life in the intimate town flows between the refined marinas and its narrow streets, lined with gourmet food shops, bakeries wafting the rich aroma of bread and pizza, and bar tables tucked among palms and bougainvillea, that here bloom with a soft red hue variety. It seems that the old covered market has just reopened. We decided to buy some fresh fish there that will later fill our table - on the terrace of a charming typical villa we rented just outside the town - with the rich flavors of the Mediterranean, alongside colorful sun-ripened vegetables and warm freshly baked bread.

Picturesque view of La Maddalena’s elegant harbor and colorful historic town

My fascination with the history brought us to take a look at the town hall, which had opened its doors and set up a photographic exhibition, featuring some historical images of the island’s inhabitants, from when their work was devoted to the shipbuilding industry. And in sync with the island’s unhurried holiday rhythm - which here unfolds with natural ease - we later on stopped at La Bomboniera, a classic Italian café, where the scent of croissants and the aroma of roasted coffee fill the narrow street that opening onto the little harbor, and locals sit engaged in long conversation or quietly absorbed in the daily newspaper.

First settlers, from Corsica and from the coastal region of Italy, brought with them a strong fishing tradition. Today it’s reflected in the La Maddalena local cuisine, and in the menu of a variety of restaurants, which are being reinvented with new contemporary twist by the island’s younger generation. Evenings here often center on seafood dishes - octopus with potatoes and herbs, fregola with mixed seafood, the catch of the day or a classic seafood fritto misto. And yes, I’ve tried them all, enjoying them among the lights of the old town narrow streets, always with a good glass of wine. While the elegant La Perla Blu offers a romantic terrace overlooking the charming harbor, Zi Anto is an informal cliffside restaurant, buzzing with summer and seaside energy. Kumalè is tucked away in the countryside, blending bohemian culture with coastal surf energy.

The charming small harbor of La Maddalena

II.

The Wild Side

Among the archipelago’s 55 island - from La Maddalena, with kilometers of panoramic roads,  to pristine atoll, adventurous excursions are quite easy to plan. Especially if you rely upon some private boat trips, well spread in every harbor - the one named Freemind Experience led us throughout a boat trip of rare beauty. Every detail of the tour ran flawlessly across the clear blue water. With fresh fruit offered on board and laid-back conversation, it felt just like spending the day on boats with a company of old friends.

Caprera, the other main island seems to be a favorite among cyclists. But our holiday was all about leisure, so we opted for the car. It’s linked to La Maddalena by a long, narrow bridge lying low over the water — and on windy days, the waves crash wildly against it. We shared the island with a wandering herd of native goats, who unruffled stared at our passing car. Besides them no one inhabits Caprera and right after the high season the atmosphere revert to an intimate wild mood. The island’s road meander through dense pine woods, crossing hiking trails, spectacular beaches and a couple of rustic wooden kiosks, where we tried an unusual but surprisingly tasty sheep burger.

Cala Coticcio beach in La Maddalena Archipelago. White sand and turquoise water.

Carefully protected as part of the Archipelago Reserve, all the island beaches make no contest — they could be easily rival the postcard perfect tropical scene. Emerald water, luminous white sand, rocky cliffs and wind-shaped vegetation. Cala Spalmatore is a natural pool, where the big pink rocks shelter a quiet bay. At Cala Andreani the remains of a sunken wooden boat lie at water’s edge, adding a suggestive touch. Baia Trinita is a wide and panoramic cove where granite boulders and soft sand descend towards the sea. It already lies beyond the edge of Italy’s satellite reach — the phone had greet us with a French welcome reminding how far we’ve wandered. We’ve had here the best sunset, with a local beer and a handful of guttiau, the island’s crispy flatbread.

Access to Cala Coticcio — nicknamed Tahiti — is restricted and booking is required (via website) to preserve the  fragile beauty. But it led us to have a fully castaway experience, in its almost mythical beauty. The granite rocks appear sculpted, shaping an amphitheater of blinding white sand and impossibly blue, crystalline water. It secluded nature also brings people closer: we shared the shade with few elderly women, who looked anything but tourists. They shared with us precious insight about the island life, which made us reconsider how geography once shaped existence — when the sea was both a gift and a force to be feared. Even now, its timeless fascination endures.

Cala Andreani, one of La Maddalena’s most peaceful coves, and the poetic remains of an old wooden boat.

III.

Don’t forget to come back

We suggest leaving the island at sunset. The lights of La Maddalena and Palau seems to answer each other across the water, while seagulls escort the ferry as it glides slowly back. You’ll still feel the sea on your skin, the taste of the day’s fresh catch, the scents of wild aromatic shrubs, and the warm hues of the rocks. Yet you’ll know that the island - independent of everything - will still be there, waiting for your return.